Absolutely. I’ve worked with very fast, very energetic, and very young dogs for years. Whilst it may be a challenge, we always get the shots we need. Let’s be honest, the cheeky and naughty ones produce the best photos.

I understand that not every dog makes instant friends with strangers, especially those wielding a big camera! I’ve got plenty of experience with nervous dogs, and we can take it slow. I like to let dogs have a big sniff of the environment, have a play with their humans, and start from afar. I also know some dogs just need more time than we have. On the rare occasion where your dog is far too nervous to participate after some slow introductions, we can meet up again (and again) until your dog is comfortable to get the photos that show their true selves.

I typically do not do shoots in your home. There are a number of reasons why but the main one is I want you to get the best quality photos of your furry friends. I shoot only using natural light, outside. The locations I suggest have been carefully chosen to make sure that your pets look their best in the best lighting. To get beautiful creamy backgrounds and nice light, I use lenses that have focal lengths not well suited to being in a yard. They require a decent amount of distance from the subject, and the subject to be a solid distance from the background. Fences, walls, play equipment, sheds, washing lines, etc. distract from your pet and make images messy. Shadows from neighbouring properties, sun being obscured by houses, etc. all reduce the quality of images and limit the amount of distinct shots we can get. I consider exceptions to this such as when Dogs of the Suburbs is on a regional tour, if you live on a rural property or large acreage.

The best photos come from sessions that are fun, that means I want humans to be relaxed too! Don’t stress if your dogs aren’t reliable off lead. Most of the dogs in my photos are on lead, I’ve just removed them in Photoshop. Leash removal is part of my editing process because the safety of your pet is my number one concern. I also bring extra long leads to allow for more freedom. Please note: I do not remove collars or harnesses from images so choose carefully!

It’s best to make sure your dog has had an opportunity to burn a bit of excess energy the day of a photoshoot and hasn’t eaten too much. I recommend arriving early at the location and letting your dog have a good sniff of the area too. Lots of people choose to get their dogs groomed before a photoshoot, that is up to you entirely. If your dog has long fur on their face, I would suggest ensuring their eyes are clear of fur and easily visible. I carry a range of treats and toys with me but if your dog has favourites, definitely bring them along.

It’s not required, but it can make your shoot a little more interesting. Trick training is a fun way to bond with your dog so I always support people taking the time to do that! A solid sit, stay, down, and recall is very helpful for photoshoots. Beg, wave, and paws up also make for lovely photos. But don’t stress if your dog doesn’t know many tricks! We’ll still have a lot of fun.

Sorry, no. Why? Let’s talk about it. I, like most professional photographers, shoot in a RAW format. RAW photos are functionally the modern day film negatives. They are unprocessed and un-compressed data files that contain all of the “image information” available to the camera sensor. RAWs are flat and dull to look at. This is very different from say, taking photos on your phone. Those captures are automatically processed without your input by software in your phone to be more vibrant, sharper, etc.

On a practical level, RAWs require specialised software to be opened, the vast majority of people cannot open them. You need pretty serious processing power on your computer to even preview them yet alone process them. Further, the majority of my RAW files are between 80mb-120mb, each. This means for a single shoot I might take up to 50gb worth of photos.

RAW images also include all the bloopers, your dog looking away at the only moment your kid looked at the camera, a bird flying through the shot, leads dangling in front of your dog, etc. Post processing is a huge part of modern photography, the photos that you see and enjoy from photographers are a result of both shooting and editing. Taking RAWs is taking unfinished work.

The only time I will consider giving RAW images is for a commercial shoot, where there is an available specialist to process them for a brand’s specific needs, and we have a strict contract in advance regarding RAW files.

You can add additional household dogs to the sessions for $50. Note: this does not increase the number of digital images received.

I like to photograph dogs as they are, so I do not bring costumes, etc. for standard photoshoots. If you’ve got a specific vision in mind, let me know. Of course, you can bring whatever accessories or outfits you’d like your dog to wear. Please note: I do not photograph dogs that are wearing aversive tools like prong collars and e collars. If you use them, please remove these from your dog before our photo session.

I shoot on location, using natural light. I have a range of suggested locations around the Sutherland Shire and some other parts of Sydney. You can choose between locations with open fields, bush tracks, water, sand, or something more urban. No matter your preference, we’ll be able to capture some beautiful photos of your dog. If you have a specific location in mind, get in touch to discuss travel on-location pricing.

Photography sessions usually take place in the evenings around sunset. If that doesn’t work for you, we can find another time.

Absolutely! I love capturing the special bond between pet and owner. If you and your family would like to be in the photos with your pets, please let me know when you are making your booking.

Some people and their dogs like a muddy photoshoot, so it is possible to proceed but we will typically reschedule. We will also need to reschedule if the weather is excessively hot or windy.

Possibly. I get dozens of requests each month to photograph litters of puppies ahead of them being sold. Whilst flattering and I absolutely love photographing puppies, I only photograph litters produced from dogs that have had the breed club recommended breed health testing. So if you’ve got evidence of the suite of tests hip scores, eyes clear, etc. (not just DNA) on your parent dogs– let’s do it!

Maybe! I’ve photographed a few cats, rabbits, and birds. Get in touch, let’s chat about it.

I do travel across Australia a few times a year. You can get on my interstate waitlist here.